The Ring of Fire

Today started with an early breakfast at 7.00 so we could set off on a tour of SW Iceland called the “Golden Circle” provided by Gateway to Iceland. In a  15 seater coach we ten adventurers, including a babe in arms, ascended into the mountains to our first stop, Thingvellir National Park.

 The sun was out but with a lively wind it felt like a three layer day. Hundreds of tourists were waiting to greet us at the place where the North Atlantic ridge cuts through Iceland revealing the increasing gap between the North American and Eurasian tectonic plates.

 We walked down into a valley between the two plates

 and visited a beautiful little church built on the site of the original Iceland Parliament in the 9^th century.

 Justice was dispensed swiftly in those days where women judged guilty were put in sacks and drowned in the river whilst men were simply beheaded. The most common crime was incest although some punishments were for running off with a neighbour’s spouse. How things have changed!

Next stop was at the Geyser area where the same crowd of tourists had rushed ahead to greet us. The sun had become hidden by rainclouds so as we waited to be drenched by scalding steam from the geyser our backs were exposed to driving Icelandic drizzle. 

We coped bravely with both types of water and after a long wait the geyser pumped a little and we were able to retreat to the cafe. You almost need to book an appointment in the loo when layers of clothing have to be peeled off carefully only to be reapplied in the reverse order! Coffee, tea and half a slice of chocolate cake each cost £14.00, but half of that must be needed to pay for transportation to this desolate place.

Another short journey and we arrived at Gullfoss, “the Golden Waterfall”, although no one seems to know how it got its name as the water tumbling over an immense cataract in spectacular fashion is white, glacial water mixed with clay. What an amazing site! 

I understand there are white water rafting trips on this river but it must be at another spot. A local lad is said to have admired a shepherd lass on the other side of the river until eventually he waded across to woo her and declare his love; he must have had a foolhardy temperament, a strong desire and a good pair of binoculars!

Circling back to Reykjavik to complete our trip we stopped off at another waterfall with a salmon ladder nearby to enable the fish to ascend and provide angling sport for the local farmers. Afterwards we were privileged to walk round the rim of an extinct volcano (Kerid) while staring into the bottom of the crater where a seat was placed for picnics.

 No picnics for us today though, it was much too cold! All the time on our trip we were able to see glaciers and volcanic mountains in the near distance but active volcanoes were hidden in clouds.  We passed villages completely heated by geothermal steam and a pumping station which collects underground water  at 80*c and sends it by pipeline to Reykjavik to supply domestic hot water, central heating and when mixed with cold water keeps the swimming baths nicely topped up. We are finding it difficult getting used to the smell of sulphur every time the hot tap is turned on in our hotel, but at least the cold water is pure and crystal clear.

We're off now for a lobster feast!